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An Indian Summer

Yes, I realize that phrase is politically incorrect but I’m going to use it anyway.  It’s an appropriate term for what has been happening here in London.

I hate the heat.  Absolutely hate it.  In my opinion, summer is one of the worst times of the year.  Profuse sweating leads to ruined clothes, humidity frizzes my hair, and more often than not I see people trying to escape the oppressive heat by wearing nothing more than spandex.  All of these things are frustrating and—the last in particular—are more than a little disgusting.

London is experiencing a heat wave at the moment.  I mean, it’s October and it is hotter in London—foggy, windy, rainy, London—than it is in Virginia.  I find this odd and frankly, I also find it distasteful.

Now imagine this:  you’ve just gotten dressed in your internship best.  Hair done, make up in place, and you’ve got a twenty-minute hike to the Tube station.  This is how you start the day, but don’t worry, it’ll get better.  But only after it gets worse.

Once you get to the Tube you’re crammed into a tiny tram with about fifty other people who are all dressed the same as you.  Imagine all of that sweating, hair frizzing, and improper outfits crammed onto an already scorching Tube.  The body heat combined with the natural heat makes it even worse than you think it is and before you know it you’re inhaling nothing but hot, stale, recycled, air.  Imagine that being the case for fifty claustrophobic minutes and when you finally do manage to escape to your stop you’re blessed with a new appreciation for personal space and body deodorant.  I assume it’ll get worse when winter actually arrives since people will not only have their day luggage but also bulky coasts.  At least during winter when you exit the Underground you can find some relief in the cooling outdoor temperatures.

Distaste of the summer heat or no, I wasn’t going to let two perfectly sunny days in London go to waste.  I spent my Friday in Brighton Beach, which was an easy hour away from London.  All the day I ambled up and down a beautiful pebbled beach, drew in deep breaths of the sea air, saw the overactive pier, and even lazed about in the gardens of the Royal Pavilion.  All in all, I could understand why people in the Regency Era went to Brighton to regain their health and vitality.

Sunday was just as peaceful and even sunnier.  That day was spent in Green Park, St. James’s Park, and Hyde Park.  I strolled down the Princess Diana Memorial Walkway, glanced towards Buckingham Palace (I’ve been in quite a few castles and after a while they all kind of look the same) went through the Rose Gardens, ran away from the ducks and swans on the Serpentine River, saw the Peter Pan statue, and all the beautiful scenery that came with it.

The heat should break by the end of the week, at the latest.  I certainly hope so.  I can’t believe that I’m actually missing the rain and gloomy fog as much as I do.  All this sun has been wonderful but I truly hope that Mother Nature gets back to normal as soon as possible.

Living in a home-stay is one of the best parts about staying in an international city.  What better way is there to accustom yourself to a different culture than by living with those who practice it everyday?  Some host families are absolutely wonderful—I’ll forever remember Francois Cologhan, the French woman I stayed with in Tours, as one of the nicest women on the face of the planet.  She was also an excellent cook, which my stomach enjoyed.  Some host families are eccentric—such as Madame Perrod, my host mother in Paris, who was in her 70’s and taught aerobics classes for seniors.  In both of these situations, I lived happily with my temporary mothers.  We clicked, I like to say, and my stays were enjoyable.

The only thing is, you really have to make sure that you click.  If there is no click then you’ll end up miserable and despondent.  You’ll not want to go home or even talk to your host family.  That, unfortunately, was my initial experience in London, as I’ll describe down below.  Allow my experience to serve as a cautionary tale.  Listen while I illustrate what happened to me while I was in residence at my first home-stay.

Mr. and Mrs. Smith (obviously these were not their names, but in the interests of protecting both their identities and their dignities I will use these pseudonyms) were a busy family.  Both parents had full-time jobs, three adult children, and two dogs handle.  Understandably, I tried as much as possible to accommodate them.  Yet it seemed that after the first week with them was finished—after my shiny, American newness had rubbed away—that the family had no more interest in me whatsoever.

Whilst I was living with Mr. and Mrs. Smith, they were attempting to sell their house.  I am normally a very neat person, so cleaning my room, making my bed, and putting things in order wasn’t unnecessarily difficult.  What was difficult, however, was coming into my room after a long day and seeing my various possessions moved about, rearranged, or just plain displaced.

My family also tended to ignore any uniformity in a dinner schedule.  A family is required to give you breakfast each day and three dinners a week—which you are generally supposed to eat as a family.  Well, in the three weeks I was there, I ate with them about four times and had my other meals “prepared” for me and then left in the microwave.  When I did join them for dinner, it was with select members of the family.  Once, I was left with just Mr. Smith, who ignored me while he watched television on his iPad.  Other times, even if I was on time for dinner, they would not be eating, weren’t hungry, or had eaten earlier and were intent on leaving me to my own devices.

The menu didn’t change either.  Though I am not completely adverse to the idea of eating pasta I am not one of those people that lives and breathes Italia.  I enjoy vegetables, legumes, and fruit.  So having white, generic pasta served to me for each of my meals with the family (all of which were not eaten with them) was not fun.  Twice I replaced the dishes in the refrigerator and went to Tesco to buy meals that possessed some degrees of variety.  As a visiting student, my stomach was supposed to be on the receiving end of various English dishes or family favorites—not whatever was quickest and most inexpensive to make.  I mentioned the lack of variation once to Mrs. Smith and asked if it could be addressed.  What did I find set out for me later that day (the family had already eaten, despite the fact that I was only five minutes later for supper) but more pasta (and this particular dish had been sitting on the stovetop for three days).

The laundry also became a tipping point.  In the agreement the families have with Hollins, they are strongly advised to allow the student to use their washing machine.  They don’t have to but it is very odd for a student to be refused access.  When I asked Mrs. Smith about it, she flatly refused, saying that my things would “get lost” and that she didn’t want to deal with it.  Had this been a washer and a dryer I might have been a bit more understanding.  Yet it was only a washer and the more I thought about it the more I found it hard to believe that I could misplace my own vestments, especially when they were clumped together in a wet heap.  In the end, my odyssey to clean my various garments should not have been as difficult as it was, nor as expensive, and from there, resentment began to grow.

Something else that is very important is communication with your host parents.  As a stranger in a foreign land it’s only natural that you go to them for help or just to ask questions about day-to-day life.  If they just ignore you then what’s the point of even being with them?  You could have just as easily stayed in International Student Housing and Googled everything you wanted to know if you wanted that type of experience.  Beyond the first week, Mr. and Mrs. Smith did not engage me and did not seem to want to answer any of the questions I posed.  Granted, this disconnect was probably felt stronger due to the lack of meals together, but even when we did eat together I was usually shut out of the conversation, with Mr. and Mrs. Smith preferring to talk to their own children rather than myself.

Now, I do not want to put anyone off on the possibility of staying with a host family.  All of my friends here are living with families, singletons, and elderly people who are absolutely wonderful.  I hear glowing reports, hysterical stories, and praise from many of them in regards to their hosts.  And, since I have been moved, I can say the same about my new host parents.  Never have I met nicer people and—though I am still a bit skeptical after my first experience—I plan to make the most of my new living arrangements.

Although—as a word to the wise—go about leaving in a gentler manner than I.  I did not tell Mr. and Mrs. Smith I was going until I was ready to walk out the door.  I will admit, it was a freakishly poor idea.  I only decided upon it because I didn’t want to live for days with them in a terribly awkward situation.  To use a rather childish metaphor, I pulled the band-aid off in one quick tug and didn’t prolong the suffering.  Yes, they’ll feel the sting, but so will I.  For as long as they live, they’ll think of me as the rude American girl who departed without so much as a warning.

I would also like to mention that if you do make the decision to move to another home stay you will have someone very influential in your corner.  The director for the London Program—Sara Levine—acted on my behalf within minutes of hearing me say I wanted to switch.  In fact, she was the one who encouraged me to stick up for myself in regards to my unhappy living situation, saying that it was better I be content rather than miserable.  Upon my final decision Sara went into immediate action and I had another home stay within days. She checked up on my regularly and even offered to be there with me when I told Mr. and Mrs. Smith that I was leaving.

Take what this post what you may, just know that as a student whose university is employing these families, you have rights.  You have the right to ask for proper meals and to be in a situation where conversation and friendliness is encouraged, not forgotten.  I am not saying that Mr. and Mrs. Smith are bad host parents; in fact, our university has used them before and has gotten excellent reviews from previous students.  I, however, am not one of those students.  I did not feel the click and though I feel bad for putting Mr. and Mrs. Smith out, I do not feel bad for leaving.

My new home stay, by the way, is worlds better than the last.  I felt the click at once and after two days in residence already feel like an adopted daughter.

Rock and Roll

At Windsor!

Strange Beauty

As many of you know, London—like many large cities—is a living, breathing, organism.  Its arms are steel skyscrapers, its skin is the concrete walkways, its veins are the interwoven Underground lines, and its heart is a titillating combination of ancient history and hip modernity.

But if I were to describe what I considered to be the soul of London, I wouldn’t point my finger towards places like Buckingham Palace, the London Eye, or the Infamous Tower.  No, if I were approached and asked what I thought the soul of this city was, I’d have to answer accordingly.

The soul of London resides in its people.

Walking down a street in London—and no, it doesn’t matter which street, any will do—is like striding through stalls set up at a World Market.  Accents, clothing, and fragrances from India, France, Germany, Spain, and—of course—England, can be heard, seen, and smelled with every turn of your head.  Frankly, it’s wonderful just to spend hours on a bench watching the world pass you by—for it is indeed the world, or at least representatives of it, passing you by.

Just today, I was walking home from my internship and passed several women wearing hijabs, there were also men in turbans, and women wearing the complete burqa.  As I watched them go by (I’m an incredibly slow walker) I couldn’t help but think that there is a strange beauty to wearing such overt symbols of your culture and faith (notice I put culture first and faith second) with such pride.  These people walk tall, proudly; and even when covered head to toe in garments some associate with restricted freedoms and terrorism they possess a type of grace I wish I could imitate.

What is even more beautiful is the fact that here, I don’t see any of these girls, men, or women turning away in shame and embarrassment from odd glances, sneers, or rude comments.  They don’t turn away because there are none lobbed at them.  They are accepted as another part of life in a city as cosmopolitan as this.  They can be themselves, they can speak with whatever accent they please, and they can comport themselves in a manner that they see fit.

They’re not judged for it.

I enjoy this very much.  I enjoy looking at all of the diversity around me and seeing it meld together—like some kind of ornate piece of jewelry where each bauble is a different color.  They’re all strikingly unique but in the end the differing shades combine into something that is even more precious, more lovely, than they ever were separately.

Cue music.  Let up the lights.  Signal the dancers.  We’re going to take a moment to enter the world of London’s musical theater.

I began my journey today by first going to Leicester Square, a prominent part of London that’s simply buzzing with activity.  It’s halfway between the must-see areas of Covent Garden and Trafalgar Square and home to most of London’s world-renowned theaters.  I consider it to be one of the most exciting places of London, probably because it reminds me most of New York City—you know, the theaters, the TKTS booth, the M&M’s store, the shopping centers, and the constant rushing of human activity (a word to the wise, you have elbows.  Use them!)

But I digress.

Say you decide you want to go see a show.  Leicester Square is where you want to go to get reduced priced tickets.  There is the official TKTS booth near the very center of the square.  This is the most legitimate place to buy tickets of any kind at a reduced price.  They have a listing of the available shows on an electronic board nearby and it’s easy to get lucky with TKTS.

But it can also be a little bit pricey, especially if you’re a student on a budget.  That’s where the independent retailers come in.  All around Leicester Square are smaller, independently owned reduced tickets booths.  If the TKTS counter has a limited selection or turns out to be a bit too expensive then I would definitely suggest going to one of these independent booths.

But be cautious!

If you don’t want to get turned away at the theater for having purchased a false ticket (even if you didn’t know) make sure you scan your chosen booth for a STAR registry.  STAR stands for the Society of Ticket Agents and Retailers.  These are the people who are legally recognized as ticket dealers.  If you come to a place that looks promising but it doesn’t display the STAR registration then I ask you to please go elsewhere.  You can take the chance and buy tickets at a booth without STAR registration but then you run the risk of getting ripped off.

I found my booth (STAR registration included) and asked about the shows.  My first choice was Les Miserables—which I had seen here before and absolutely loved—but tickets were only available for the evening show.  In the end, I paid 24 pounds for a seat at Her Majesty’s Theatre to see a production of the Phantom of the Opera.  What can I say about that?   I was up in the nosebleed seats, obviously, but even with a “restricted view” I was able to see just about all of the production.  The chandelier was magnificent, the singing stellar, and the man who played the Phantom is my future husband.

Okay, kidding on the future husband bit, but in all honesty he was absolutely superb.  His depiction of the Phantom’s descent into madness was better than anything I had ever seen in the movies (you know which one I’m talking about).  By the end of the show my heart ached for him.  It also possessed a rather healthy does of fear and loathing.  I mean, he’d tried to strangle Raoul.  How much could I like him?

The dancing, the costumes, the choreography—all of it was enchanting.  I was riveted throughout the entire performance despite my seat in at the very top.

I will most definitely be returning to Leicester Square.  Not next week but probably the week after that.  I still desperately want to go see Les Miserables and if I can’t go see that, Billy Elliot, The Lion King, Rock of Ages, and One Man, Two Guvnors are on my list!

I never want to go home.

Okay, so maybe for a visit or two, but hear me out first before you start spouting off protestations.

I’m in love.

Yes me; hardened, jaded, sophisticate (coughcough) that I am.  I have finally allowed the tender bottom of my stone head to be exposed and laid bare for the taking.  What, you ask, has forced me into such an astonishing change?

Allow me, for a moment, to describe the scene from outside my window.

It is raining—kind of a downer, yes, but I mean, come on.  It’s not like we all didn’t expect it.  I am in London—but the rain isn’t harsh and it’s certainly not stopping me from pulling open the window in my room.  The window that overlooks one of the most magnificent English gardens I have seen.

Okay, so it’s the first English garden I’ve seen—big deal—but from all accounts it is exactly what I imagined when I think of what a proper English garden should be.  Apple trees grow in the center—the fruit is ripe and I can pick my own apples for my lunches if I want—mismatched but well-placed pieces of furniture skirt around the trunks, half-wet already from the steady mist that’s been falling.  And all along the edges are walls covered in ropes of fleshy vines, dotted with vibrant flowers.

This is what I will wake up to every morning.

This is what I will be able to sit in when the leaves turn everything gold and the seasons necessitate a sweatshirt.

Crouch End is magnificent.  It’s just what I always expected a small, close-knit English community to be like.  Crime is nonexistent save for the infrequent person who does not clean up after their pooch.  In the town square, everything revolves around a relatively diminutive but nonetheless regal clock tower located in the very center.  Busses buzz back and forth with passengers coming and going to the center of London.  A tube stop is right up the hill.  It is a timeless example of British elegance that just tugs on my heartstrings like nothing else I have ever witnessed before.

Frankly, I am glad I am this enchanted and that I have stayed enchanted thus far.  For a few days I wondered if my enamored sensibilities had simply been a result of an extreme lack of sleep after my less-than-stellar flight.  Don’t get me wrong, the plane was in no danger of crashing or anything, but I held a rather abrupt hatred for my accidental seatmate who—unlike me—was able to snooze for six out of seven hours we were on the plane.  So instead of the sleep I so desperately wanted it was Kung Fu Panda II and Midnight in Paris (ah, la belle France tu me manqué!) for my restless eyes.

The cab ride over was not really any better and actually more exhausting than the flight.  Meet, via blog, Shidvar Singh who was my escort into Crouch End.  A devout Hindu, he found it pertinent to impart to me all the commonalities associated with the Hindu religion—including why he was dressed in a full beard and turban and why his car was decked out as a travelling Hindu temple.

“What is the difference between animal and man?”  He once asked me.  Dazed, running on twenty minutes of sleep, and still trying to wrap my head around the fact that we were driving on the wrong side of the road, I remember shrugging dumbly and shaking my head.  “Man has God,” he told me as he stroked his beard, “and that is what separate the two.”

Good to know Shidvar.

But I digress.  Like I said before though, the enamored set of glasses I have perched on my nose have not yet fallen off.  So perhaps Crouch End really is all it seems to be:  a quiet English hamlet on the edge of one of the most exciting cities in the world.

All I know is, right now you won’t see me complaining.

Finally Finished

A month after I come back from Paris and I just now finish posting the videos.  Eh, what can I say?  I needed sleep.  I hope you all enjoy!

Johanna